Friday, October 21, 2011

Make Money Solving Plumbing Problems

!±8± Make Money Solving Plumbing Problems

Owners or tenants pay you to solve plumbing problems in their apartments or homes. Since this is an emergency type service, you should be able to make money without much trouble. People seem to have leaking water, and/or stopped up drains quite often. With the right kind of knowledge, you can easily solve most of these problems. (This is article #4 in a series of emergency handyman services.)

Requirements

This business idea is best suited for people who are physically fit and enjoy working with their hands. You must be able to locate and remedy common plumbing problems. If needed, you can buy how-to manuals at most plumbing or building products stores.

You should own a pickup truck or van to haul equipment, materials, supplies, and trash. You need to own or purchase the equipment and protective gear required for this activity. You should set up a home office with the basic office equipment and supplies.

Getting customers

Use a simple classified advertisement in the local newspaper or on craigslist.org to get customers. Also, advertise in any property owner's newsletter.

Preliminary job activities

After arriving at the job site and greeting the customer, inspect the water leak or stopped up drain. Determine if you need to purchase any plumbing fixtures, drainpipe, or water pipe. You should already have a supply of assorted drain traps, gaskets, screws, and washers for minor repairs.

The customer may be in a hurry and want you to work on a holiday, weekend, or at night to get the plumbing problem fixed.

You can use standard job bid forms to estimate your labor and the costs of materials and supplies. This bid should include the fees for any extra services to be performed, such as hauling away any large amounts of trash. If the customer accepts your bid, you both can sign the bid form.

Turn off the main water supply valve. Also, shut off any electricity or combustible gas to an affected water appliance.

Main job activities

Following are typical plumbing problems you may encounter and the procedures to take care of them.

Clogged aerator or showerhead -- The aerator is a device on the end of a faucet spout that mixes air with water to produce a gentle stream of water. A showerhead often is adjustable to allow different streams of water, such as a fine spray or a concentrated spray. You can unscrew either device from its spout and open it up to remove all the clogging particles inside it. Then screw the device back onto its spout.

Defective hot water tank -- If the tank itself is leaking it will have to be replaced. Sometimes a heating element on an electrical hot water tank burns out. In this case, only the heating element has to be replaced. If the hot water tank has to be replaced then the defective tank will have to be hauled to a suitable dumpsite. In most cases, a defective hot water tank should be repaired or replaced only by a licensed plumber. (Note: Draining, refilling, or replacing a hot water tank is a very delicate operation. Be sure you are fully qualified before attempting these procedures.)

Frozen water pipe --If the frozen water pipe is ruptured, turn off the main water shutoff valve. Then you will have to cut out the portion of the pipe that is split or ruptured. Place a water pail under this gap. Next heat the pipe beginning where the pipe was cut off and going both ways toward the rest of the pipe. After thawing out the pipe, you will have to replace the missing portion of the pipe. Then open a faucet and turn on the main water shutoff valve to verify that the pipe has been thawed out.

If the frozen water pipe is not ruptured, do not turn off the main water shutoff valve. Begin heating the pipe starting from an open faucet and going toward the portion of the pipe that appears to be frozen. Usually this will be where the pipe is exposed to cold air.

You can use any of the following heat sources to thaw out the pipe:

* Electric heat tape
* Heat lamp
* High-power air dryer
* Small portable heater

Do not use an open flame to thaw out a frozen water pipe. This may cause a fire.

Leaking bathtub or shower -- Any leaks from the showerhead or tub spout should be obvious from visual inspection immediately after use. You may be able to fix the leak by putting Teflon tape on the threaded pipe that supports the showerhead or tub spout. If the showerhead or tub spout is rusted out, you will have to replace it.

If the shower drain, or the bottom drain in a bathtub, is leaking as seen from water stains underneath it, you probably need to install a new gasket or plumbing putty between the drain flange and the shower or tub floor. If the side drain (overflow drain) in a bathtub is leaking as seen from water stains underneath it, you probably need to install a new gasket between the outside wall of the tub and the flange of the overflow drain.

If the seams in the bathtub wall or shower enclosure have opened, you will have to reattach the wallboard and/or apply new caulking. Also, you may need to renew the caulking between the bottom of the shower or bathtub wall, and the top edge of the bathtub or shower drain pan.

Another possible source of leaks is water spraying through the gaps where a shower curtain fails to butt firmly against the wall on either side. You can use adhesive caulk to attach plastic triangles to the top edges of the bathtub to close these gaps.

Leaking drainpipe or trap -- The two main causes of leaks from a drainpipe are a rusted or damaged pipe, or a worn-out gasket.

If there is no gasket at the source of the leak, then the drainpipe itself is probably damaged. You will have to replace that piece of the drainpipe. This drainpipe is usually either white thin-wall plastic, chromed metal, ABS black plastic, or galvanized steel.

If the drainpipe goes under the floor, you may have to get access to the crawl space or basement to locate the source of the leak.

When replacing a portion of a drainpipe that goes inside a larger pipe, be sure to allow for the "hidden" portion of the replacement drainpipe. Where different kinds of drainpipe are connected together, you'll need a compression nut and a new gasket for the connection.

Leaking faucet -- A standard faucet (or hose cock) is used for either cold water or hot water. Thus, two faucets are needed to deliver the desired temperature of water to a sink, washbasin, showerhead, or tub spout. A hose cock is a shutoff valve that allows the female end of a garden hose to be attached to its spout. It is used as a water supply for a clothes washer or a lawn sprinkler, or as a drain for a hot water tank.

The standard faucet (or hose cock) has a rubber washer that bears against a valve seat, the source of water. The washer is held in place by a screw that goes into the stem (spindle) of the handle.

A single-handle faucet controls the water temperature by mixing hot and cold water together. Depending on the manufacturer, these faucets use different devices to mix and control the flow of water. This device could be a cartridge, ceramic disc, or rotary ball with two rubber seats and springs. If this device is leaking, you will have to replace it.

Leaking toilet --If the toilet is a single piece, the leak will be where the toilet sits on the floor. You will have to unfasten the toilet from the floor, replace the wax ring, and re-fasten the toilet to the floor.

If the toilet has a separate water tank, the leak may be where the bottom of the water tank attaches to the top of the toilet bowl. If so, you will have either to carefully tighten the screws or replace the gaskets.

Leaking water appliance -- a water appliance refers to a dishwasher or clothes washer. The two main sources of leaks in a dishwasher are the hot water supply line and the drain line. You have to remove the kick plate of the dishwasher to get access to the underside of the dishwasher. While the dishwasher is running, you can inspect these two lines to see where the leak originates. To fix the problem, you probably need to tighten or replace the connection between the dishwasher and the water or drain line.

There could also be a leak where the other end of the hot water supply line goes into its shut off valve. If so, you probably need to tighten the connection or replace the washer.

A clothes washer is connected to the hot water and cold water supply with a pair of short hoses. These hoses are similar to a garden hose, but are stronger. You may have to tighten the connection or replace the washer. If the drain line connection to the clothes washer is leaking, you should tighten it or replace the washer.

Stopped up drainpipe or trap -- If the trap is blocked, you can simply unscrew it and dump out the water and any blocking material. Once the trap is cleaned out, any further blockage would be in the drainpipe after the trap. Remove the trap again and use an auger to clean out the drainpipe.

Stopped up toilet -- If the toilet bowl is overflowing, the blockage is either in the internal trap in the toilet, or in the drainpipe going from the base of the toilet to the sewer line. In either case, you probably need to use an auger to clear out the obstruction.

Final job activities

Turn the main water supply valve back on and turn on any electricity or combustible gas that was previously shut off. Check for any leaks or drain blockages. Inspect the premises to verify you have finished all required tasks. Remove all your equipment and supplies.

Collect your agreed upon fee from the customer. Haul large amounts of trash away, if part of your agreed upon services. (Remove small amounts of trash as a courtesy to your customer. You can haul it to a dumpsite later.)

Final thoughts

This business idea lets you make money while providing a needed service. You can start out as a part-time venture. Then, if the demand is sufficient, you might want to make it into a full-time venture.


Make Money Solving Plumbing Problems

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Saturday, October 15, 2011

WEDCO JERRY CAN (Water) with CLIP-ON SPOUT

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Post Date : Oct 16, 2011 04:20:22 | Usually ships in 6-10 business days


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Monday, October 10, 2011

How to Control Earwigs Naturally

!±8± How to Control Earwigs Naturally

They do feed at night and do seek out dark, cool, moist places to hang out during the day. Some common hiding places are under organic matter such as mulch, pine straw, leaf litter, and other debris, loose wood chip mulches, decaying matter, rotten fruit on the ground, wood, boards or tree branches that are on the ground, under dense growth of vines or thick cover and flower pots, any thing moist that will shade and protect them from the sun. As well as hiding in piles of firewood you didn't use last year and let us not forget hanging out inside that small wooded shed you have out back that you haven't been gone inside in years. While Earwigs are scavengers, eating dead insects, decomposing plant materials they can also eat live plants and damage your vegetables and feed on the flowers of plants, including marigolds, petunias, hibiscus, and many other plants. Earwigs leave many small holes in plant leaves and flowers.

Seedlings and most flowering plants can be severely damaged or even killed when you have a large earwig population (coffee grinds will protect). Earwigs can produce large populations rather quickly and can become a major problem for the homeowner over night! They are attracted to lights so they will come in at night attracted to any lights that are on; as well as to any lights that you have on during the day which will cause them to hang out there esp if it is a cool area. Earwigs can be found in most homes and can get in through entry points like doors and windows, going up through the broken walls and any cracked openings, broken screens. They do have a beneficial role in the landscape and have been shown to be important predators of aphids, mites, most insect eggs, and most soft bodied insects such as white flies. They do have a very disagreeable odor when crushed.

Some Natural Controls
Hint: earwigs are attracted to moisture
Control water around the outside of the house. Repair any leaks. Convert to drip system to keep water below ground. Regularly control weeds and clean up dead debris. Eliminate high moisture areas around walls, in mulch, under stones, boards, etc. Control damp moist conditions in crawl spaces, faucets, along the foundations. Change landscaping by creating a dry border immediately around the house walls. Gravel or flat stones can make an attractive barrier against earwigs and other pest invaders. Rain gutters should direct water away from the house. Caulk or use weather stripping at all possible entry points such as doors, windows, pipes, repair screens and doors and windows. Where earwigs are a problem, eliminate hiding places that have high moisture levels. Initiate a regular daily trapping program. Removing earwig habitats is very important to the control of all insects, including earwigs. As they are attracted to lights, stop lighting outside at night. Remove the white light and install yellow LED ones instead.

Inside the Home
Indoors earwigs should be vacuumed up daily; be sure to kill them and dispose of them by dumping into a plastic bag and tying and throw into trash, promptly so they will not re-invade. If earwigs are a regular problem in a building, inspect the area to see how they are getting in the house and seal and chaulk up cracks and all entry points. Repair all broken screens.

Natural Sprays
Essential Oil spray
You can make a natural spray that will keep them from coming into the house. Use 1/2 oz per gallon water of any of the following essential oils available

1. citronella oil

2. cinnamon oil

3. pennyroyal oil

4. clove oil

5. lavender oil

6. citrus

7. basil

8. any natural essential oil can be use the above are just a few. Try your own.

Citrus Spray Use OTKO a Natural Citrus Cleaner. Spray straight through a mister. Will kill earwigs and most of insects on contact. Soap Spray Use any natural castile soap like Dr Bronners soaps. They make peppermint, lavender, almond, tea tree and lot of other natural sources. Use 1oz per gallon water. Will kill earwigs when sprayed.
DE SPRAY Gadren Grade DE can be added to water and sprayed. Best way is to put some DE into a panty hose and suspend in gallon water. Allow to sit, pour into a gallon sprayer and spray. when dried the de will act as a barrier and kill and earwigs that crawl over it. You can use just dust the areas with it.

Check List
Vacuum, vacuum ad vacuum...
Vacuum up any earwigs inside your house. Vacuum very thoroughly and as often as needed. Throw away the bags in the trash.

Natural Dust
Garden Grade DE can be used as a dust around the house as well as under the house and the attic. Dust lighly and allow to sit.
Boric Acid can be used as a dust in cracks and other areas between the house walls.

Reducing Populations:
Traps inside the house is one ongoing way of you managing earwigs in the home on a regular long term bases.

Various Traps
Ultimate Flea Trap is by far the best insect trap on the market. This one uses no chemicals and only a small light with a sticky mat that get the insects trapped that are attracted by the light. Place one in every room that has earwigs. It also works on fleas ( thus the name) as well as on spiders, cockroaches and most other insects.

Outside the house
Remove materials outside the perimeter of the building that could provide as a hiding place, such as ivy, plant debris, leaves in gutters, old wood piles, old leaf litter, piles of newspapers, or other organic material. Caulk and repair cracks, crevices, and other openings around the foundation or around the outside of the house. Manage moisture around the building by repairing or replacing leaky faucets, leaky air conditioners, leaky drains, control water going into the foundation after it rains, and provide crawl spaces to allow for entrance. Repair or change the conditions to promote a drier environment. Caulk and weatherstrip around doors. windows. bathrooms water outlets as well electrical outlets.

Go through any areas inside that is dark and they can hide in. Cardboard boxes will make a great host place for them to hang out inside the house. Remove any other debris such as old unused firewood. Always keep moisture away from your home by repairing any defective rain spouts, keeping the grading in an area so water drains away from the home, and by keeping proper ventilation in crawl spaces to allow area to dry out.

Earwigs are attracted to outdoor lights, so replace them with Yellow LED lights, which are less attractive to earwigs. Treatment should be done outside with natural applications of garden grade DE around the building foundation, flower beds, mulch areas and turf within a couple of yards of the building, as well as in the crawl space areas of the home. Treat in a two foot band around the building adjacent to the foundation to limit earwigs from getting inside. Establish dry border right around the base of the houses for great control.

Traps outside the house
Newspaper: A rolled-up wet newspaper held together with a rubber band.
Cardboard Box: Punch pencil-size holes along bottom edge of cardboard box.
Old Garden Hose: 12-24 inch pieces of garden hose
Used cat food can. Add 1/2 inch any type beer or wine.
Tupperware: Use a tupperware like plastic container. Punch holes along the top edge of the tub, add 2 inches any cheap wine and cover with top and sink into ground.
Finch Bird House can be used as a housing unit where you can place a 8 oz plastic cup 1/2 filled with beer or wine. I would try one of each and see which attracts the most.

Trapping is an effective, easy approach to reducing earwig populations.
One of the key element of a natural earwig management program is a daily active trapping system. Just before dark, place the bird finch traps throughout the yard in out of sight places. In the morning, shake them out the traps over a pail of Dr Bronners Soap / water or any natural soap n water. Keep trapping until you do not catch any more earwigs. Traps can be hidden near shrubbery and ground cover plantings, or against the house. For fruit trees, keep weeds, brush, and the suckers (always prune) away from the base of trees throughout the year because they provide refuge for earwigs, snails and other creatures. Monitor populations by counting amounts of earwigs caught in the traps.

Eliminate Their Habitat:
Altering the habitat around your garden will reduce earwig population and damage. Get rid of their hiding places: boards, weeds, wood piles, plant debris, leaf litter, and any other objects that create dark, moist hiding places. Do not plant dense ground covers, such as ivy, mint, herbs,, next to vegetable or flower gardens. Raise vulnerable seedlings indoors until they are able to withstand some munching. Or start them outdoors on a table with legs protected by sticky barriers.

Some folks advise against the use of organic mulch because they say it provides harborage to pests such as earwigs and spiders. I have the opposing view that organic mulch offers earwigs a diverse hunting area that will save your plants as well as provide for the earth's needs. Mulch can easily be kept clean of earwigs by dusting with garden grade several times per year or by dust just before and after every time you apply a new layer of mulch. Spraying the mulch with any natural soap will also control them too.

Andy Lopez
The Invisible Gardener


How to Control Earwigs Naturally

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Thursday, October 6, 2011

Justrite 7250130 Galvanized Steel, AccuFlow Type II Red Safety Can with 1" Flexible Spout, Large ID zone, Meets OSHA & NFPA For Handling Hazardous liquids. 5 Gallon (19L) Size.

!±8±Justrite 7250130 Galvanized Steel, AccuFlow Type II Red Safety Can with 1" Flexible Spout, Large ID zone, Meets OSHA & NFPA For Handling Hazardous liquids. 5 Gallon (19L) Size.

Brand : Justrite - AccuFlow
Rate :
Price : $64.71
Post Date : Oct 07, 2011 00:50:59
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